Convert Your Dining Table into a Board Game Table with a Removable Topper

At a glance

Convert any existing table into a premium gameplay surface with a removable table topper. This two-piece design features a recessed inner playing field and raised platforms for comfortable gameplay. It also splits in half for simple setup and breakdown. All you need are some basic woodworking skills and tools like a circular saw and drill!

DIY your own removable board game table topper 

In an age of smartphones and screen time, there’s something especially valuable about gathering around a table to play games with friends. Whether your space is limited or you’re looking to elevate your setup, a removable board game table topper can make all the difference.

This clever convertible table was designed and built by Zander, a Dunn Lumber employee at our Shoreline store. He’s been DIYing for years, crafting everything from bookcases to desks to coffee tables. For Zander, building comes naturally thanks to many years spent around his dad, who specialized in siding.

This table is built to give you more room to play, keep pieces organized, and comfortably host everything from strategy-heavy board games and immersive role-playing sessions to basic board and card games. With a recessed play area and plenty of surface space, Zander notes it’s ideal for adventures in games like Savage Worlds, Gloomhaven, and other tabletop strategy favorites.

Let’s get started.

Refer to this cutting diagram for the steps below

Step 1: Cut base and raised platform supports

Begin by measuring and cutting both sheets of ½” plywood to 30” by 84”.

Taking the five (5) 96” two-by-fours and one (1) 10’ two-by-four—or two (2) 10’ two-by-fours, if you plan to build legs for a freestanding table—cut the following pieces with the circular saw:

2 x 4 - 96”

• Two (2) pieces at 7’ (make sure each side has a fresh cut, as indicated on the cutting diagram, since they'll be exposed in the final project) 

• Two (2) pieces at 5’ (hold onto the 3’ remnants for later in the project)

• Ten (10) 9” pieces for blocking

2 x 4 - 10’

• Four (4) pieces at 28 ½”

• Four (4) pieces at 28” (if you are building table legs)

Need help right-sizing your cuts? We can help with that. Learn about our plywood and lumber cutting service.

Step 2: Fasten raised platform supports

Use the smoother face of the plywood as the side that rests directly on the supporting table. Place one 7’ two-by-four piece along the long edge of one 30” by 84” plywood sheet. Place two (2) 28 ½” two-by-four pieces along the shorter outside edges.

Use clamps to secure the pieces in place.

Fasten the two-by-fours to the tabletop with 2” wood screws. We placed two screws in each outer corner of the box, then four screws at one-foot intervals through the tabletop and into the two-by-fours.

Step 3: Mark placement for inner playing field

Mark a line on the plywood to indicate where the inside playing field will sit. The placement of the interior wall can be customized based on your game requirements and preferences.

Step 4: Cut and fasten inner playing field borders

Using 9” pieces as spacers for accuracy, measure the inner playing field border pieces at roughly 18”. (This length might change depending on the dimensions you prefer for your playing surface.) Cut two (2) 18” pieces from the 3’ remnants left over from Step 1.

After cutting, mark which sides are the fresh-cut sides. We used letters A and B. This will ensure the cuts match up when the tabletop halves are joined together.

Fasten the two 18” pieces from underneath using 2” wood screws going in from the tabletop. We recommend reverse-threaded screws for a smoother finished look, as they provide more suction and recess cleanly below the surface.

Step 5: Add long inner playing field border

Arrange the 5’ two-by-four piece parallel to the 7’ two-by-four piece using the 9” spacers for alignment. Using 2 ½” angle brackets, attach the 5’ border piece to the tabletop.

We recommend using three (3) angle brackets for stability—fastening each with six (6) ⅝” screws into the plywood base and six (6) ¾” screws into the two-by-four.

Step 6: Build second half of tabletop

Repeat steps 2 through 5 to construct the second half of the tabletop. Make sure the A and B sides line up so both halves align.

Step 7: Cut raised playing surface and inner playing field

With both halves of the frame complete, it’s time to cut underlayment for the raised playing surface and inner playing field.

From the one (1) four-by-eight underlayment sheet, cut:

• One (1) 35” x 49” piece

• One (1) 12” x 74” piece

• Four (4) 12” x 18” pieces

From the one (1) two-by-eight underlayment sheet, cut:

• One (1) 12” x 74” piece

Step 8: Fasten raised playing surface to raised supports

Using ⅝” flat-head screws, fasten one (1) of the 12” x 74” pieces to the raised supports, ensuring the screws sit flush or slightly recessed. Using the same screws, fasten two (2) of the 12” x 18” pieces to the raised supports.

Repeat on the second half of the tabletop until both raised playing surfaces are fully covered and smooth.

Step 9: Join both table halves

Place both halves of the tabletop on a large, stable surface. Starting on one end, fasten the window sash to the support pieces on each half of the table, joining them together.

Repeat on the opposite side of the tabletop.

Note: For added security, attach a 2 ½” barrel bolt on either end of the tabletop from underneath the playing surface. This will prevent the tabletop halves from shifting during play.

Step 10: Cut and attach bottom guides and/or legs (optional)

If your gaming tabletop will be set on a smaller supporting surface, consider adding bottom guides to prevent sliding.

To add bottom guides, cut eight (8) 6” pieces from the one-by-two 8’ white wood board. Attach the pieces around the perimeter of the supporting surface using 6 x 1 ¼” screws. Be careful not to overdrive the screws, as they can pierce through the plywood and prevent the inner playing field surface from laying evenly.

We built this as a tabletop to go over an existing table, but if you’d like to add foldable legs so it can be freestanding, add the 28” lengths you cut earlier. Using locking hinge brackets, install the legs at the tabletop corners so they fold along the 7’ sides.

Step 11: Add inner playing field surface

Place the final 35” by 49” underlayment piece into the recessed inner playing field. Depending on how custom your inner playing field is, you may need to trim a few inches to get the perfect fit. Adjust as needed.

Note: This piece is intentionally removable so you can easily disassemble the tabletop for storage or transport.

Step 12: Game on!

Set the stage, gather your party, and let the games begin. Customize your table even more by painting it the perfect color. Cat optional.

What to explore next

If you enjoyed this project, check out some of our other toys and games projects like our:

• DIY Penny Board
• How To Make a DIY Plinko Game Board